Tuesday, November 22, 2016

Goodbyes Are Never Easy

I spent my last day at the same camp today. I had mixed emotions driving there, since I was happy to be returning home to see my family but sad to leave my Syrian friends behind. They have to stay in these extremely tough conditions, but I get to fly away to comfort, warmth, and acceptance.

I was happy the cloudy day forecasted instead turned warm and bright; days like this bring out the best in the camp's residents. I was also happy to share my day with a pediatrician and an Ob/Gyn. This meant the sick 1-month-olds had an expert to evaluate them, and the possible endometritis patients had a physician with an ultrasound machine and years of experience to make sure they were OK. I felt we were at the top of our game, practicing medicine almost like at home. Although I am sure I had done a good job treating the children when they came in sick, I knew I wasn't trained the same way pediatricians were and it had made me feel guilty.

One of the patients who had been moved to housing last week stopped in to the camp today, and I was surprised. "Why are you here?" I asked. "Didn't you get moved to an apartment?" She looked beautiful. Her curly hair was clean and styled, her makeup was perfect, and her clothes were fashionable. She smelled better too! She acknowledged she had moved out, but her 4-year-old son was very depressed and wanted to move back. All his friends were at camp and nobody spoke his language "outside." He did not remember a life other than this. She brought him back to play with his friends, and she felt guilty being here, like she was rubbing her friends' faces in it. She gave me a hug and said it would be OK soon. My heart ached for her. 

Not only were the residents very active today, but I was happy to see many other NGOs at the camp.  A Greek Department of Education representative was there making sure children were vaccinated so they could soon start school. Joy! The UNHRC was also there for interviews, but what really made me happy was CLOTHES!!!!! AND SHOES!!!!! All day an NGO was present near the military offices with shiny new clothes and shoes for the refugees - people - to take. I didn't see coats but I was told they were there. Seeing warm garments for my friends made me almost as happy as seeing them head off on a bus to semi-permanent housing; now we just need heaters for the warehouse so my friends won't die of the cold.

I was hoping to see my special friend and a few others before I left - I knew some of them were aware it was my last day. As physicians we are not supposed to go into the warehouse and tents unless we were with a translator on official doctor business, so I couldn't go seek them out. While I was quite busy in the afternoon seeing lots of muscle spasms and headaches and dental problems,  I did notice that my special friend stayed to the periphery, shoulders down. She seemed sad, and wouldn't look me in the eye. Her mom came to say goodbye, but she would not; she was too sad I would not be there to see her everyday and make her feel special. My heart ached a little more. 

Lastly, my friend who had said goodbye to her neighbor yesterday stopped to give me lots of hugs. She saw my Miraculous Medal of Mary necklace (thank you, Dorothy), my purple beaded cross bracelet (thank you, Carrie) and my worry ring (thank you, Erin). She said she would miss me and tried to give me her ring, which appeared to be her only piece of jewelry. I was so touched and we both teared up.  I told her she would always be in my heart, and she hugged me again and again, saying thank you for coming all this way to take care of us, to see us and to know our life is real. After looking at my jewelry she seemed happy I  believed in God, and told me when she had lived in Lebanon for 7 years she had lived in peace with her Christian, Muslim and Jewish neighbors. She knew we all believed in the same God, and told me she would pray for me. I couldn't believe that this woman, a refugee awaiting asylum, was going to pray for me. It's the things like this that have touched me so much, these unselfish, loving people who have lost so much but give so freely.

I told her I would pray for her too, and that I knew our God would keep her safe as he had on her long journey thus far. Then we embraced one last time, my heart aching some more, and I said goodbye.

For now.
Our SAMS team on my last day, 22-Nov-2016
 
My friend and her ring. Such a generous soul
The SAMS logo on the vest I wore on my medical mission. I was proud to be an ambassador for this amazing NGO

Monday, November 21, 2016

It Doesn't Get Any Easier

Today was my 9th day working in a Syrian refugee camp near Thessaloniki, Greece. I have 1 day left; we leave Wednesday morning for home. It has been an emotional roller coaster for me, meeting amazing refugees for whom I can only show love in many cases. They need it; it has been a long and painful journey, and it's not over yet.

A bunch of new volunteers arrived this weekend and started yesterday, with today their first full day. I am amazed at all I've learned over the last 9 days that I can share with them. Today I worked with Fionn (short for Fionnghaile*; she's a pediatrician/ER doc from Ireland) and David (pediatrician from Indiana-soon-to-be-Boston). Holly was our team leader, and she's a nurse from England. Our female interpreter was Shayma, a chemist from NJ, and our translators are from Syria, awaiting their final legal papers. "Sul" was a professional soccer player, and "Mo" was an engineer. We were a smart, international team, ready for anything. To me our diversity was so important to show the refugees how the world is working together to help them.

Many people have asked me what the refugees get to eat. Well, I can only answer for my camp, but it boils down to take out. Yes, take out. Because there's basically no electricity, and the tents are inside so there cannot be any fires, the people here cannot cook their own food to their own tastes...yet another liberty taken away. Instead, the Greek government has a catering company visit the camp twice a day (lunch and dinner; dinner includes breakfast for the next day) and the UNHCR (United Nations Refugee Agency) documentation dictates how much they get (based on family size). The camp residents came to the truck and pick up their bags, then go to their tents to eat. An inhabitant has told me a new company has started in the last few days, and meals consist of a selection which could include rice, pasta, chicken, chick peas, and lentils; the morning meal is croissants and juice. The military office keeps a stock of flat bread which appears to be given out fairly freely, and water appears to be plentiful. But spices, fresh fruits and vegetables, and sweets are in short supply. Several times per week an "older" couple parks a truck outside the camp to sell fresh produce, and a decent number of inhabitants seem to buy a few things to add to their meals. It still seems woefully limited, and although I have no idea how much food is supplied in each meal, there are no grossly overweight people in the camp and the children are pretty small.

We weren't too busy in the clinic today - we are using a new program to help take better care of patients and it has been a bit of a struggle - so the slow pace was needed. It gave me more time to really talk to my patients, many of whom I've seen before. I saw one woman to check on her acute paronychia and to evaluate her stomach pain. She was feeling better, and we added what we could to her regimen. She discovered I would be leaving after tomorrow and gave me a giant hug. "What time will you go?" she asked in Arabic. "I need to come say goodbye." She was thankful I, with the other doctors on the team, had helped make her feel better and had treated her with respect. So many people consider refugees invisible, when all they want is to get on with their lives. She left with a smile on both our faces. I was so touched when she returned a half-hour later with a tray of tea for the team, a bowl of sugar on the side to make it as sweet as we liked. Again, like yesterday, she was so proud to see us drink her gift with great enjoyment - these chilly mornings in a tin-can container are nowhere near as cold as in the warehouse, but cold nonetheless. Hot tea is a great gift, especially when it comes from the heart.

While triaging patients later in the afternoon today, I noticed one of our translators had disappeared. I wandered around for a bit and he was heading back towards the clinic when I saw him. "I had to translate for the UN" he said, pointing to a large bus. The bus was parked outside the military office, and about 10-12 people were on it, ready to go to a hotel or housing, one step closer in the asylum process to a new life. I walked a bit closer, and saw the woman who had passed out last week. We caught eyes, and she started to gently cry. I waved to her and could not suppress a sob. She looked so happy, relieved already, to be out of the cold and on her way to some amount of freedom. The bus drove across the parking lot to make a U-turn and on the other side was one of my young women patients, one who had a chronic headache from the stress and anxiety. She was so beautiful, even though she told me she felt ugly and rejected. Her children were always clean and well-behaved...and they were all on the bus. All of them. On a bus to warmth and some independence. She saw me waving at the bus as it departed and stood up from her seat, crying, and blew me a kiss. "Thank you," she mouthed, "thank you." My heart grew some more.

I turned around to go back to the clinic and another frequent patient, the one I had called "old" in my head who was only several years older than me, was behind me, sobbing. She fell into my arms. "Why not me?" She was devastated; her best friend, her long-time tent neighbor, was on that bus. And she wasn't. I had no words, consoling her only with my touch. Shayma, our NJ translator, tried to console her too, but really, what can you say? What? It just really sucked, and there was nothing we could do about it. 


Today's tea delivery
Me and Fionn in the clinic container today
Child's drawing, borrowed from www.sams-USA.net/2016/08/23-days-1-2-of-SAMS-global-response-by-Mark-boothroyd/
*Fionnghaile is pronounced "Finn-oo-lah;" Coolest name ever.

Sunday, November 20, 2016

Day of the Child

November 20th is Universal Children's Day and I didn't even know it until the day was done here. I randomly saw a hashtag on Facebook and decided to look it up. It was established in 1954 by the UN, with additions in 1959 and 1989. Its initial sole purpose was to "promote international togetherness among children worldwide, improving child welfare." Since then, a "declaration" (1959) and a "convention" (1989) have advocated for children everywhere. Here's some important points I discovered:

...in particular in the spirit of peace, dignity, tolerance, freedom, equality and solidarity
And the European Commission signed the following in effect TODAY:
Education?

These documents shocked and saddened me as I prepared for this post. Dignity? Really? Is it dignified to have children live in tents surrounded by 600-1200 other people who have suffered or witnessed horrific atrocities? To watch your children fight for food, or be so frightened they won't even eat? How about bathing your children with cold water when it's cold outside? And if you decide not to bathe your child for those reasons, your tent is located in a cold, uninsulated warehouse with no heat. Is that dignified?

Currently 25% of refugees are children. I easily see that in our camps here in Greece. It breaks my heart to see them with the most minimum of basic necessities to survive. I see many of them, when these chilly days get warmer as the sun rises, running and playing like kids do. I don't see temper tantrums. I don't see crybabies. I also don't see children in school. Every day moms or dads bring their kids to have us make sure they don't have lice or scabies, asking for treatment to "keep it away." I told one mom today that treating her kids with lice shampoo now, when they don't have lice, doesn't prevent them from getting it. Her shoulders sagged and she started to cry, "I just don't want them to be filled with bugs." This, on Universal Children's Day.

The European Union signed a Joint Statement today which commented on "an explicit commitment to ensure all children are receiving education within a few months of arrival." What kind of education do they mean? How committed are they? There are 3 new brightly colored containers in my camp, in a recently cleared area which has been covered with a nice layer of pea gravel. There's a fence around it and compared to the rest of the camp, it's quite lovely (as my British and Australian co-volunteers would say). It's the "school." I say "school" because I've never seen a kid in any of the three "classrooms." I've seen some random children playing in the gravel yard, but over the last 8 days there's never been anyone resembling a teacher in that area. I learned that although classes are offered, the kids just choose not to attend. However, here's the catch: the only classes currently offered consist of 30 minutes a day of Greek and English. That's it. 150 children in this camp, and 30 minutes of instruction in how to speak 2 new languages is the only "education" offered. No wonder kids fight over bananas. Not only have they been traumatized by the life they knew in Syria and the journey out, but now by a lack of dignity, tolerance, and absolute BOREDOM. How on Earth can we celebrate Universal Children's Day when these refugee children are virtually invisible?!?!?

In spite of the sadness and frustration I feel at what I've described above, some children today showed me that even when every card in every deck seems to be stacked against them, they can still shine. My "special friend" I've talked about before came to greet us quite early today. As medical volunteers we are pretty much forbidden to give gifts to our patients, for fear there will be perceived favoritism and then persecution by others in the camp. On my day off yesterday, I found a way to get the picture she had requested of the 2 of us together printed. I signed her copy, and she signed mine; now we have the same picture to remember each other by forever. She was very touched and hugged me as tightly as one can hug. She shuffled off, staring at the photo. It was quite moving. Within 15 minutes, my special friend and her disabled sister delivered the clinical team cups of hot tea, served on a trash can lid turned upside down, like a serving tray, lined with a paper towel. You can tell extreme care was taken for both presentation and quality. It was the most delicious tea I have ever tasted, and my special friend was lifted as high as a kite to see us drink the tea she and her family had prepared for us. It was all they had, and we drank from their cups as if it was the finest china. I've never seen children so proud. In this moment we celebrated the Day of the Child - let's work together so the rest of the world can, too.

Reuters picture; children in Aleppo, Syria this week, collecting firewood in the rubble to stay warm.

Saturday, November 19, 2016

Time to Think

As you might expect, I've had a lot to think about. Fortunately or unfortunately, I haven't had a lot of time to think. Today was my day off so in addition to a bit of exploring, it also meant time to be a little pensive.

I took the bus into the city of Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece. There are about 350,000 inhabitants and apparently it's a more bustling place in the summer due to its proximity to the coast. My goal for the day was to decompress a little, learn a bit about the region, and go to the Museum of Photography to see the current exhibit' "Another Life: Human Flows/Unknown Odysseys. It's an exhibit about the refugee crisis; how fitting. I was hoping it would help me understand the animosity of the Greek people against the refugees. Something just hasn't fit together logically in my experience so far and I was looking for answers instead of questions.

Thessaloniki is a pretty town, but outside the center the crumbling infrastructure is pretty apparent. There are plenty of shops, shoe stores, bars, coffee shops, restaurants and dessert stores. I visited the White Tower, now named because it has been whitewashed but historically called the Red Tower because of the blood shed at the site over the years during the Ottoman Empire. It was originally built in the 12th century, then this building replaced the Byzantine fortification in the 15th century. I saw something interesting in one of the exhibits:
Top left:the White Tower; top right: the title of the exhibit; bottom: an historical emphasis of diversity
Here's a town which has had much bloodshed due to varying empires, with an historical precedent of people relocating here for safety and solace, in a region against the current wave of refugees. Hmmmmm.

I then walked back down to the opposite end of the waterfront to the Museum of Photography. Thank goodness for Google Maps! It is definitely a bit of a challenge getting around because Greek writing uses a completely different alphabet...I can't type in a name on google maps, because I don't have those letters on my phone (Greek language is derived from the Phoenician alphabet, and it is the predecessor of the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets). I found my way in, somehow, and walked up the stairs to the exhibit space. The first thing I noticed was how quiet it was in spite of the people present. Really really quiet. Large pictures lined the walls of the large, open space and after paying I started at the beginning, pausing at each to read every picture's description.

It was sobering. 


Here you can see two fathers trying to keep their children alive after their boat sank (right) and trying to disembark in unsafe conditions (left)
Not everyone made it; dead bodies washing up on Lesvos
Next is a description of two pictures on display; through the words you can see the people:  
God bless Kostas and Sharaf
This exhibit started in May 2016 and was to end this week; due to overwhelming demand, it has been extended through mid-January 2017. As of May 2016, the number of refugees landing on Lesvos alone was 850,000.  The population of Lesvos before the crisis? 8,500. In fact, the little fishing village where many of the refugees have landed has a population of only 100 people. You can easily see how overwhelming this has been for the residents of the island (there are others too, but this is the most dramatic) as well for those trying to escape the horror.

The pictures were heart-wrenching, but learning more about the history of the crisis through Greece's eyes was fascinating. The last section was about Idomeni. Idomeni is a Greek town on the border with Macedonia where the refugees crossed to go through the Balkan route to Europe. There was no refugee camp there, but when the border was abruptly shut due to the EU's bargain with Turkey, the refugees had nowhere else to go. A makeshift settlement sprang up, with attempts to make it more humane, but 13,000 people is a lot of people. This link shows pictures from a BBC article about Idomeni last March. Eventually the camp was razed and people were redistributed to the camps near Thessaloniki where I am volunteering. I swear I saw familiar faces in the exhibit's photos.

One of the more difficult things to explain to my patients, when they have asked me why no one is helping them, is that Greece is a very poor country. Five years of recession in the setting of government corruption has left the Greek people wary. The infrastructure is infantile, there has been no urban planning, there is no money to pay debts, there is a 24% tax, and I can go on and on. Nowhere in Greece can you put toilet paper in the toilets - used or unused, number one or number two; it's that bad. The Greek government has put many roadblocks in front of NGOs here to help the refugees, mostly to gain economically from it. Want to treat refugees with meds? Buy them in Greece. Want to get food, clothes, toys, etc for refugees? Buy them in Greece. This way the Greek government, and theoretically the Greek people, can benefit too. People all over the world want to send clothes, toys, supplies, etc but it doesn't seem like any of it can be used because it wasn't bought here; how incredibly frustrating. But think about it - Greece has a population of almost 11 million; the refugee crisis has added an instant 10 percent, at least. Who can pay for that?!?! It just doesn't seem fair that one of the poorest countries in the EU has to bear the brunt of this refugee crisis, and the rest of the EU slammed the borders shut. Both the Greek people and the Syrian people are left to suffer. 

So, I learned a lot today on my day off. I had a lot of time to think, and it's still not fair.

Friday, November 18, 2016

A Sense of Normalcy

Again the sky was blue today. I was assigned to the same camp, and I was happy to see familiar faces. When you've spent 6 days in a row at the same camp, the people become friends and it almost seems...normal. You open shop, unlock the med cabinets, get the triage spreadsheet ready, look through the referrals scheduled for the day, and take a deep breath. You temporarily lose track that you're not in your regular practice, that although your patients have a place to stay, they really can't call it home. Instead, there's a weird sense of normalcy that permeates the setting which makes me feel kind of guilty. THIS ISN'T NORMAL. 

Today my special friend came to see me. We had written her a letter, in Arabic, about our hope to have her family granted emergency asylum. She came with her mom, and sat on our examination table. I handed her the envelope, sealed shut. She took it hesitantly, and needed help opening it; she seemed very nervous. When she opened the letter she gave a slight gasp, "Momma, it's addressed to me. That's my name!" She didn't recall the last time she had received mail of her own. We told the two of them we weren't sure how long it would take, but we were hoping that with her serious medical condition and her family's safety concerns it would be enough to sway someone somewhere that she needed to be a priority. My resident, Fadwa, was with me and helped me to reassure them that no one from the camp was aware of this situation. Mom became emotional and told us she wished she could bring us something to thank us for trying to help them, even a cup of tea. We told them hugs are the best gift we could ask for, and got those without question. Then my special friend asked if she could take a picture with me - after she went to her tent and brushed her hair. I hugged her tightly and she shuffled off, returning 15 minutes later with her shoulder length, black wavy hair brushed and neatly pulled back. With her she carried 2 juice boxes. It was her gift to us for being so nice to her and giving her hope. Juice boxes. Beautiful, lovely, orange juice boxes. For us. We took pictures together and I kneeled down and gave her the juice boxes back, telling her they were our gift back to her. She needed to be strong to help her momma. She smiled and gave me another hug. As she shuffled back to her tent I couldn't help but think about this family's generosity in the setting of such fear and sadness. THIS ISN'T NORMAL.

Seeing patients in this setting has been an exciting but weary challenge. People, no matter where they are, all have the same organs and bones and nerves. We all feel the same pain. Diabetes and hypertension are the same in the US, Europe, the Middle East, and China. We all feel pretty crappy when we have a cold. But in most settings when you need cough medicine or Tylenol you go to the pharmacy and buy it yourself. When you live in a refugee camp, you come to the clinic for everything, because you have no other choice. Lips chapped? Come see me and I will scoop a bit of Vaseline into a little plastic cup for you and stick it into a Baggie. Pass out when you're washing the dishes? I will soak a gauze with alcohol to put on the lump on your forehead because we have no ice packs, hoping that the cooling effect of the latent heat of evaporation will help ease the pain while waiting for a taxi to arrive to take you to the hospital. I have learned many things here with the Syrian refugees - people - including how to do what I can with what I have. While I am proud of these skills and proud of the amazing international volunteers here doing the exact same thing, I wish we could give everyone the best of what the medical field could offer. THIS ISN'T NORMAL.

I have heard many stories, and I will hear many more before I leave next week. Stories help us understand, help us empathize. Just remember the little boy who drops in fear at the sound of a balloon, thinking it is gunfire, the next time you pop one. Remember the family who flees to their tent when a helicopter flies overhead, thinking ISIS is hunting them down again. THIS ISN'T NORMAL. Better yet, remember the little boy playing with a moth on the ground, watching its wings flap up and down slowly, like any little boy anywhere. Remember my special friend wanting to brush her hair before taking a picture, like any young woman anywhere. Remember the next time you go out in your car from your house to by your own cold medicine that you have a choice to go wherever and buy whatever you want. All my Syrian friends want is a sense of normalcy, just like you and me.
Remember that 2-year-olds in refugee camps like to take selfies, too.
 
Remember that moving day, when you live in a refugee camp, is exciting and stressful, just like it is for you
 
Remember the best teams are the most diverse ones - meet today's clinical and interpreter teams
 

Thursday, November 17, 2016

I'm New at This

I was again hopeful about today. The sun was shining and although it was below freezing, a rare cold for this time of year, I felt promise in the air. We arrived at our camp and prepared for our patients. There was a trickle in the beginning so we assumed the night had been quiet for the residents at the camp. Unfortunately, that had not been the case. Their fear and cold was too great to face the new day.

Eventually the triage was busy and we heard the usual - headaches, sore throat, runny noses. With two women doctors working today, we also saw many women with "female problems;" modesty prevents Muslim women from discussing private concerns with male doctors. They were grateful for our presence.  Who would have thought both of us would be from New Jersey, never having met before we volunteered in a Syrian refugee camp almost 5,000 miles away?

Like everyday, we try to be optimistic so these beautiful people know they have not been forgotten, that somewhere in the world there are people who know they are not terrorists just because they're Muslim. But it's hard, no matter how you try. When I saw a boy who was almost 5-years-old this morning, but looked like he was barely 3, I asked Dad if he was playing normally. Dad merely replied, "he doesn't really like to get out of the tent." I suggested coloring books and crayons but I only got a blank stare - the boy did not even know what a coloring book was. He was my second patient and I was already tearing up. What 5-year-old has not heard of a coloring book?!  

There were several emotional cases today, but one young woman will hold my heart for some time, if not forever. She has a congenital disease with multiple severe comorbidities. I was amazed she hadn't been moved out of the camp sooner, but the family was still there. Among all these concerns, it didn't seem as if she had been previously told exactly how chronic her diseases would be.  I took a deep breath and asked the translator to explain it using some analogies she might find familiar. As she grasped the enormity of it, her shoulders dropped and she leaned backwards, quickly, against me and started to cry. Mom was crying. I was crying.  Even my translator Hisham looked seconds away from lacrimal gland failure. I told her she was so smart, soooo smart, that she needed to focus on her brain and not her other challenges. Then, Hisham did something really spectacular...he told the young woman about Steven Hawking. He told her that even though the man was paralyzed except for his face, he was one of the most brilliant people in the world. As she heard him describe Steven she smiled from ear to ear. "Don't give up on your dreams" was what he told her. If I know her, she won't. I hope we can make her dreams come true.

At one point a familiar patient came in and I noticed right away her necklace: "fearless," the silver disk on her neck read. Right away I became emotional, and she grasped the metal tenderly and smiled. FEARLESS. To leave Syria, these people had to be fearless. They sold everything they owned to make their trek. They had trekked for hours into Turkey, silently, to avoid being caught and/or killed. They took a train across Turkey to Izmir for at least 7 hours, then a boat in The Aegean Sea. Some capsized, and people drowned. Others made it to the island of Lesvos, then a ferry or freighter to Athens. One of our translators said, "We went to Athens instead of to the northern coast of Greece. What did we know? We were new at this." From Athens, they journeyed up towards Macedonia to go through the Balkans en route to stability and hope. But the gates slammed shut, and they were stuck. No one ever thought it would be this long. Fearless. They are fearless to continue to get up each morning and look the volunteers in the eyes. Fearless to be true to their faith when so many hate them for it. Fearless to hope for a better tomorrow. 

They may have been new at this when they escaped...but they are fearless now.   

From Aleppo to Turkey
 
Across Turkey towards Izmir
Through Greece, however one could
 
The Thursday, November 17th Dream Team
 

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

The Little Things

The last three days here in Greece have been sobering and have filled me with all sorts of emotions. I knew today when I awoke that the day's goal would be to find joy in the little things. Although I have looked at the refugees' current existence as sad and dark, it is all they have for now so looking at them with pity may be filling them with shame. They don't need to feel shameful; they deserve joy too.
  1. Although it was chilly, the sun was shining!
  2. No fights overnight! The mood was so much brighter.
  3. The first patient today was a beautiful and feisty 2-year-old. We taught her "hello" and "bye bye" and played peek-a-boo with her. When we snuck her a lollipop she jumped around joyously. Who doesn't love happy children!
  4. A 12-year-old boy with strep throat came to see us. He stared at us with his big blue eyes and said thank you for caring.
  5. Our translator and triage guy today was a refugee in a neighboring camp. He was a small, quiet and thoughtful man who had been a veterinarian in Syria. I asked him what his favorite animal was - and he said chicken! "Chicken?!?" I asked, to which he replied, "yes, I am a small man, so I picked a small animal to care for." We all had a laugh about that.
  6. The Greek midwives NGO came to visit the camp today, and they parked their car in the compound for a bit, blaring pop music - Jo Lo! All the little kids came and danced to the music, heads back, wide smiles, innocent laughter. Just like home. 
  7. A German NGO stopped in to play with the children in the camp. They brought new balls! The children ran around playing football (soccer) and chasing each other. Such joy!
  8. We placed foil emergency blankets over our window in the medical trailer, and it retained the heat so much better. Our patients would be warmer when we took off their garments to examine them. 
  9. The children love to be tickled :)
  10. Two little kids were riding a tricycle together, happy as can be. Their eyes were sparkling!
  11. My residents (Fadwa and Ahmed today) were learning cost effective care while still trying to practice evidence-based medicine. I am so proud of their performance. 
  12. The military officer came and hung out with us for a little bit before we closed shop as we watched the joy outside. He said we were nice for Americans (!) and when we said goodbye he gave me a hug and said thank you. 
  13. Wooden pallets were delivered today - everyone cleaned out their tents of their belongings and the pallets were placed under the tents to get them off the freezing, cold concrete. Then all the stuff was brought back inside. The people will be warmer! The children will be off the concrete!
  14. At dinner tonight I learned that one of our translators, "Mo" and his family, along with 27 OTHER PEOPLE were moved out of a neighboring camp into housing, on their way to being legal citizens. 27 PEOPLE! Homes! Heat! Bathrooms! Warm water! Pride! I saw the pictures as they were transported out of camp, with the children being lifted into the air and cheered. I'm still crying. Can you just imagine.
There are so many harsh and unfair things here, which makes the joy so easy to see if you really look. What good advice for all of us. 
Ahmed and his 2-year-old peek-boo friend
Fadwa and Ahmed playing with children in the camp
16 volunteers and our field coordinator, Monica, at dinner tonight, finding joy in each others' company